From Uniform to Statement: The New Life of the Shirt

Every time Fashion Week draws to a close, the guessing game begins over what the season's hero piece will be. Following the Milan shows in September—those dedicated to Spring/Summer 2027—the answer I arrived at is perhaps the least sensational possible: the shirt.

To understand this, we have to look back to when the shirt was not even visible. For centuries, it served as an undergarment—a layer of linen or cotton worn directly against the skin, concealed under jackets and bodices. Showing it was considered unrefined, much like exposing one's underwear would have been.

It was, of course, a man’s world. Women adopted it towards the end of the nineteenth century in the form of the blouse, paired with a long skirt by the earliest female clerks and shop assistants who required practical, neat attire for work. From there, stepping into the male wardrobe was a short leap, and throughout the twentieth century, men's shirts found their way onto women with increasing regularity.

On this year's runways, that once-regimented shirt appeared decidedly liberated. Several collections placed the spotlight on colour, pairing pink, powder blue, and white shirts within the very same ensemble, cut with clean, almost austere lines that let the shades do the work. Others took a more romantic path filled with pussy bows, corolla collars, and sheer textures, using chiffon, lace, and organza to make shirts feel light and ethereal.

Viewed this way, the shift from past to present is striking. Yesterday’s shirt was worn alone, buttoned up, and ordered by masculine conventions. Today’s shirt is worn open, slightly askew, and has become the starting point for layering for women and men alike.

Translating this runway spirit into daily life is simpler than it seems. An oversized lilac shirt with a neck bow, for instance, instantly draws focus towards the face while creating soft drape that complements the silhouette without clinging. It works beautifully left untucked over straight-leg trousers or a midi skirt, keeping the bow loosely tied rather than tightly done up.

Under a tailored blazer dress, simply let the collar and cuffs peek through—perhaps turning the cuffs back over the jacket sleeves—for a polished yet relaxed feel. Paired with a grey trouser suit, a black shirt with scarf detail takes the place traditionally held by a necktie in menswear, lending individuality to classic tailoring.

A few styling touches work across the board: tucking only the front hem into trousers to define the waistline without restricting it,